Change is in the Air

PS. my blog has finally moved home to http://aficionado-x.blogspot.com/

What Happens to Fat?

To mark the World Congress on Oils and Fats and 28th ISF Congress held in Sydney from the 27-30th of September 2009, Foodservice Magazine - an industry publication released monthly, will be focusing on the use of frying fats after life in the kitchen. I was approached for an interview in the media office after attempting and failing miserably to obtain photos of the Fine Food expo at Darling Harbour.

"We just use generic canola oil.. I think.. Umm.. But don't quote me on that." I stuttered.

What I meant to say a little more eloquently was:
"Having just been awarded the newly appointed SMH Sustainability Award, it's clear that the restaurant (Billy Kwong) is at the forefront of sustainable practices in the foodservice industry. We take great pride in using some of the best produce available and while it is inevitable that waste is created, we do our best to recycle as much as possible, including the oils used for cooking during each service."

Phew. If only my mouth was as quick as my feet.

According to the cute interviewer there are chefs who recycle their dirty oil to be used as diesel fuel for their own cars. An interesting proposition indeed. At Aria I was told that the rancid oil we dumped into a huge stinking vat in the carpark was picked up and recycled into cosmetic goods and soaps. At Catalonia a big truck came along and took all our tins of dirty oil to only god knows where. Currently, noodle man Jimmy filters our oil twice a week and sends it off for a second life at another restaurant before it goes to lipid heaven. What happens after reincarnation though, I have no idea..

Flower Bank

A nasturtium plant has completely overtaken the steep slope in our front garden. Its curling tendrils seem to grasp at anything nearby and are smothering the beans, corn, beetroot and coriander that I planted in early autumn only a few short months ago. It manages to reach even the far wall and climbs upwards, alongside the trailing ivy.

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It's not without benefits though. Normally frost has its growth tamed but this year, without so much as a whispery breath of chilly morning air, it comes alive bearing great gifts. Deeply-coloured orange and yellow flowers lie among the pads of green. The scent attracts a pair of snowy white butterflies that flit through every morning for an early lunch. The Complete Book of Flowers by Denise Diamond provides some educational insight on this common edible garden species, related to watercress and with a similar peppery bite.

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"Nasturtium flowers were first found in South America in the sixteenth century. Their popularity reached a peak during Victorian Times when flowers and their bright green round leaves were grown in gardens and used for food and flower arrangements. In frost-free areas nasturtiums may be raised as perennials. They are grown easily as seasonal annuals in other areas and prefer average soil with little fertilizer and adequate water. They will trail along the ground, spill over the side of a container, or climb up a fence. The single or double flowers bloom profusely in shades of orange, red, or yellow. They grow best out of direct, hot sun in warmer climates or with full sun in cooler, coastal gardens. Too much shade or excess nitrogen in the soil will produce lush foliage with few flowers.

In herbal tradition nasturtiums have been known for their antiseptic qualities, their ability to help fight infection, as an expectorant, and as a source of vitamin C."

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This recipe is an adaptation from one I found in an excellent book called A Year in a Bottle by Sally Wise - a collection of recipes for over 100 preserves, with chapters including jams, jellies, relishes, pickles, dehydrated foods, frozen fruits, fruit pastes, fruit cheeses and so forth. When separating the petals from the stamen and sepal, I found it easiest to simply cut away the petals with a pair of sharp kitchen scissors onto a blanket of paper towel, minimising damage and bruising.

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Nasturtium Petal Syrup

55 g nasturtium petals (about 7 cups)
875 g water
790 g castor sugar
85 g lemon juice

Combine water, sugar and lemon juice in a medium-sized pot.

Bring it to the boil then reduce to simmer.

Add nasturtium petals and simmer gently for 1 hour.

Strain through a fine sieve and into sterilised bottles.

Store in a cool, dark place and refrigerate after opening.

Now.. If only I knew what to do with it.. Any ideas people? Hmm.. a nasturtium-flavoured custard perhaps?
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(Submitted for this months Sugar High Friday with Mmm, Tasty! Don't forget to join in!)

Should I Be Projectile Vomiting?

"Food becomes blood, blood becomes heart and brain, thoughts and mind stuff. Human fare is the foundation of human culture and thought. Would you improve a nation? Give it, instead of declamations against sin, better food. Man is what he eats." - Ludwig Andreas Feuerbach

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Never have truer words been spoken. We are affected by all that we digest through our eyes, ours mouths, through the air that we breathe. Food is one of the greatest (and sometimes sinful) pleasures in life that warms the heart and nurtures the soul. Good food unites nations and creates everlasting memories. Great food has the ability to transport us to another world or to take us home, wherever that may be.

It saddens me to think that despite being granted great opportunities, there are many deprived individuals who really have no idea what good food is. I have a small handful of friends who are vegetarian by choice although admittedly we don't talk much. And I do have an obsession with chicken.

I hold much respect for those who must refrain for reason of allergy and so forth (I myself have recently discovered that consuming crustaceans of some variety results in urticaria and indeed it takes a great deal of restraint despite knowing the dire consequences). And so it makes me terribly angry to discover that people don't really give a damn and will eat shit that resembles a shrunken foam mattress and be positive about it.

For the record, the crust-making technique is all wrong and it's disturbing that a jerk I mean woman with 38 years of eating experience thinks that coconut cream replicates the taste of egg in any way, shape or form. And on top of that, still hopes for some sort of book deal.

All I can say is: BLEURRGGGHH!

A Tart Pie

The weather seems to be warming up already so I'm making the most of the last few dreary days of winter with rhubarb and custard-filled pies. It's my first attempt so I consult baking expert Shirley O. Corriher on the whys and how-to mumbo jumbo of making pie crusts and borrow a vanilla pastry cream recipe from the very famous Adriano Zumbo.
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According to Shirley, sugar prohibits the formation of gluten and, in the case of pie doughs and shortcrust, proves to be functional in addition to acting as a sweetener. I choose butter over lard as the source of fat for my pie crust as it contains diacetyl - the source of buttery flavour which is commonly added to margarine and oil-based shortenings. Oh how I love diacetyl!
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The actual process of making these pies isn't as difficult as it is time-consuming. I only have four little fluted tart tins so making a whole batch is somewhat of a pain in the butt with the hour of refrigerated resting time in between shaping and baking. I fill half of the pies with a rhubarb and currant mixture and the remaining half with a slurry of date and lime. I've somehow managed to lose my recipe for the date and lime mixture but fortunately it's easy to remember - pitted, chopped dates cooked with a little water and tiny pinch of salt until mushy then sloshed with fresh lime juice.
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I originally plan to fill the pies with fruit filling, pastry cream and then bake them but for some reason the pastry cream breaks down during the baking process and leaves me with a curdled mess. So I change methods and half-fill the pies with fruit filling, popping the lids on and baking them then piping the pastry cream in to fill the remaining cavity afterwards.
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The combination of deliciously tart rhubarb with lusciously smooth pastry cream is a soft and sensual experience aided by the occassional burst of sweet currants and feels just right with the crunchy, flaky crust that envelops it.
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Pie Crust

255 g unsalted butter, chopped
500 g flour
200 g castor sugar
2 g salt
2 eggs + 1 egg white

Sift together the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl.
Rub the butter into the flour then cut in 2 eggs.
Press dough together until it forms a ball.
Flatten, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for half an hour.
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Rhubarb Filling

300 g rhubarb
250 g water
2 g salt
85 g castor sugar
25 g currants
60 g almond meal
15 g lime juice

Peel rhubarb by scraping a small knife along the cut ends of the stalks. This will lift up the long fibers and allow you to pull them away without removing the skin pigments.
Slice rhubarb and simmer with water, salt, sugar and currants for 20 minutes or until almost dry.
Remove from heat.
Stir through almond meal and lime juice.
Refrigerate until cool.
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Pastry Cream
a recipe from Adriano Zumbo

650 g milk
165 g egg yolks (about 7)
165 g castor sugar
65 g cornflour or potato starch
65 g unsalted butter, chopped
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Bring milk and vanilla bean to the boil.
Remove from heat and allow to infuse for 20 minutes.
Whisk egg yolks, sugar and cornflour until pale.
Bring milk to a simmer and temper by slowly adding to eggs, whisking continuously.
Return to the pot and bring it back to the boil to thicken, stirring contunuously.
Remove from the heat and stir over a bowl of cold water until it reaches 55ºC.
Add the butter and stir until fully incorporated.
Cover with plastic wrap (prevents a from skin forming) and refrigerate until cool.
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Roll out the dough to 2 1/2 - 3mm thickness.
Using a fluted tart pan 11cm x 2 1/2 cm (4 1/4" x 1") as a guideline, cut out a circle a little over 1" larger in diameter. This will be the base.
Turn the pan upside down and press into the dough to cut out a fluted round. This will be the lid.
Continue cutting out an equal number of bases and lids until there is no more dough.
Press the bases into the tart pans and trim off the excess (keep leftover dough wrapped and refrigerated).
Half-fill with cold rhubarb mixture and place the lid on top.
Press the edge of the lid into the flutes with the left index finger while pinching from the outside with the right thumb and forefinger to seal.
Whisk the remaining egg white and brush over the top to glaze.
Use a small paring knife to cut slits into the middle of the lid to allow steam to escape.
Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 190ºC.
Bake pies for 25-30 minutes until golden.
Cool in pans for 10 minutes before removing.
Place pastry cream into a piping bag fitted with a small flat decorative piping nozzle.
Insert the nozzle into a slit and fill the cavity with pastry cream.
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